1106.2004
George Dijmarescu, Everest summiter, writes about a Bulgarian, who climbed mt Everest on the 20 of May. There is a wrong opinion in Bulgaria and in the world that this mountaineer was Hristo Hristov. In fact that was Doychin Boyanov.
In the hospital I received some publications from the site Everestnews.com. I was told these were about Hristo’s ascent. When I read them I saw this was a big mistake. The above-mentioned reports are not about Hristo but about Doychin. It is good this to be known in the public.
Here’s the Dijmarescu report:
"I was on the summit with a Bulgarian who made the summit without the use of Oxygen but the way he climbed, sitting almost after every twenty steps is not what I call mountaineering and having fun. He decided not to topple the third step but to go around it, I try to tell him that this is the way (he was asking me previously if one of the little incline was the first step), He run in trouble and couldn't find an exit to the snow pyramid. I was at the top of third step and I saw him sliding couple of times but he managed to regain his balance, then he wiped the snow from a ledge with his arm and he was pounding his head against the rock, not very hard, then he started to pound his fist on the rock, he looked at me and his look was in desperation and sounded like :"I screwed up", down climbing was out of the question giving the snow condition. I yelled at him to go to the right, I had a vantage point and I saw a little snow gully to the right and the only option for this Bulgarian strong man or strong mind. He managed to exit and be at the summit with us. His face look like from horror movies, he laid on his back at the summit and we left him there, is a report he never made it back."
No comment about the silly and emotional allusions of Dijmarescu, who wanders why somebody must stop to rest every 20 steps and why, when already on the top, would like to lie on their back. The important thing is that this report is a mot-a-mot description of Doychin’s ascent, who too declared that he was an the top in the same time as Dijmaresku (Dijmaresku can be seen on the photo below). Dijmarescu cannot report Hristo’s ascent because in the time of his being on the top Hristo was somewhere near the Third Step, and when Hristo was on the top, Dijmarescu had already descended. I met the entire group, with Lhakpa Sherpa and Doychin, in the time of their descent. In that time Hristo was in a completely different place.
In the report above Dijmarescu does not mention any names. Unfortunately in the ABC he told the story already mentioning the name of Hristo. As a result in the Internet another story is published, this time by Michael Kodas:
"Dijmarescu told the Bulgarian climbers that he had seen Hristov, who was climbing without supplemental oxygen, on the summit. "He was far behind," Dijmarescu said. "And very, very tired. He summit with us." At the Third Step - the last of three particularly steep passages leading to the summit pyramid - Hristov got into trouble when he tried to walk around the step rather than climb directly up, and Dijmarescu tried to show him the way. Chuck Boyd of the Connecticut team said Hristov was pounding his head against a rock in frustration. When he reached the summit, Hristov lay on his back in exhaustion as the Connecticut team departed."
This report, mentioning Hristo, is a direct repetition of the above mentioned story. But these are facts from Doychin’s ascent.
This may seem unimportant but must be made for the clear memory of Hristo.
Nikolay Petkov
Doychin Boyanov on mt Everest. 20 May 2004
In the hospital I received some publications from the site Everestnews.com. I was told these were about Hristo’s ascent. When I read them I saw this was a big mistake. The above-mentioned reports are not about Hristo but about Doychin. It is good this to be known in the public.
Here’s the Dijmarescu report:
"I was on the summit with a Bulgarian who made the summit without the use of Oxygen but the way he climbed, sitting almost after every twenty steps is not what I call mountaineering and having fun. He decided not to topple the third step but to go around it, I try to tell him that this is the way (he was asking me previously if one of the little incline was the first step), He run in trouble and couldn't find an exit to the snow pyramid. I was at the top of third step and I saw him sliding couple of times but he managed to regain his balance, then he wiped the snow from a ledge with his arm and he was pounding his head against the rock, not very hard, then he started to pound his fist on the rock, he looked at me and his look was in desperation and sounded like :"I screwed up", down climbing was out of the question giving the snow condition. I yelled at him to go to the right, I had a vantage point and I saw a little snow gully to the right and the only option for this Bulgarian strong man or strong mind. He managed to exit and be at the summit with us. His face look like from horror movies, he laid on his back at the summit and we left him there, is a report he never made it back."
No comment about the silly and emotional allusions of Dijmarescu, who wanders why somebody must stop to rest every 20 steps and why, when already on the top, would like to lie on their back. The important thing is that this report is a mot-a-mot description of Doychin’s ascent, who too declared that he was an the top in the same time as Dijmaresku (Dijmaresku can be seen on the photo below). Dijmarescu cannot report Hristo’s ascent because in the time of his being on the top Hristo was somewhere near the Third Step, and when Hristo was on the top, Dijmarescu had already descended. I met the entire group, with Lhakpa Sherpa and Doychin, in the time of their descent. In that time Hristo was in a completely different place.
In the report above Dijmarescu does not mention any names. Unfortunately in the ABC he told the story already mentioning the name of Hristo. As a result in the Internet another story is published, this time by Michael Kodas:
"Dijmarescu told the Bulgarian climbers that he had seen Hristov, who was climbing without supplemental oxygen, on the summit. "He was far behind," Dijmarescu said. "And very, very tired. He summit with us." At the Third Step - the last of three particularly steep passages leading to the summit pyramid - Hristov got into trouble when he tried to walk around the step rather than climb directly up, and Dijmarescu tried to show him the way. Chuck Boyd of the Connecticut team said Hristov was pounding his head against a rock in frustration. When he reached the summit, Hristov lay on his back in exhaustion as the Connecticut team departed."
This report, mentioning Hristo, is a direct repetition of the above mentioned story. But these are facts from Doychin’s ascent.
This may seem unimportant but must be made for the clear memory of Hristo.
Nikolay Petkov
Doychin Boyanov on mt Everest. 20 May 2004
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This misunderstanding is well cleared by George Dijmarescu here:http://www.everestnews2004.com/everestnews2/georgeeverest2004p11.htm
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